BERLIN – GRUNEWALD

Photos (left to right): Bettinastrasse by Bodo Kubrak (own work) CC0 Public Domain0; Trabenerstrasse by Bodo Kubrak (own work) CC0 Public Domain; Wernerstrasse by Bodo Kubrak (own work) CC0 Public Domain all via Wikimedia Commons

Grunewald’s noble origins are still evident today, in the form of the Rot-Weiss Tennis Club, the Grunewald equestrian club, opulent villas, numerous embassies, and some of the highest land prices in Berlin. The district counts many celebrities, diplomats, entrepreneurs, and politicians among its residents. Its namesake forest, which occupies more than half of the its geographical area, also draws nature lovers and birdwatchers from further afield (especially on weekends).

The A115 expressway divides the neighborhood into east and west, with the forest on the western side and the residential area concentrated on the eastern side. The area around Königsallee to Hagenplatz contains some of the best examples of the ornate villas built during the Gründerzeit period, though many have been converted into embassies or cultural institutions. World War II bombs destroyed some of the district’s historic villas, which have since been replaced by low-rise buildings and modern apartment towers, particularly in the area around Rathenau Platz. Several new building projects - including the Villa Rosensteinweg, the Villen am Dianasee, Sun Garden Grunewald, and the Häuser am Leo Blech Platz - offer luxury apartments with modern amenities and attractive garden areas.

Königsallee is the most heavily-trafficked street in the district. Hubertusallee, Hagenstrasse, Delbrückstrasse, and Teplitzer Strasse are also among the busier streets in the neighborhood, As mentioned above, the A115 expressway passes through Grunewald, running parallel to the train tracks that bisect the district.

The 3,000-hectare Grunewald forest is the district’s most popular recreation area. Besides numerous biking and hiking trails, including a picturesque walking path that runs along the Havel River, the forest contains a series of city landmarks: Teufelsberg hill, the former headquarters of the U.S. National Security Agency (now a popular place to sled in the winter and fly kites in the summer), Grunewaldturm (a 19th century-era tower with magnificent views of the Havel River landscape), the Jagdschloss Grunewald (a hunting lodge and palace dating back to the Renaissance), and the 5-star Schlosshotel Grunewald (built in 1913 and restored with furnishings by Karl Lagerfeld). In addition to these landmarks, the forest also boasts a number of scenic lakes, including Halensee, Herthasee, Dianasee, and the dog-friendly Grunewaldsee. Besides the forest, Grunewald is also home to the Köppe Contemporary, a world-class modern art gallery that features the work of established and emerging artists from Germany and around the world.

Shopping facilities - including supermarkets and pharmacies -- are primarily concentrated in the area around the Grunewald train station. There are several upmarket boutiques sprinkled throughout the neighborhood, including the Blue Hawaii cosmetics shop on Trabener Strasse, the Viciro jewelry store on Hagenerstrasse, and the Meissener Porzellan home accessories store on Königsallee.

Grunewald has just a few high-end restaurants -- most notably Restaurant Vivaldi, the chic in-house restaurant at the Schlosshotel Grunewald. For traditional German fare, locals head to Restaurant Scheune near the Grunewald forest. Just over the Grunewald border in neighboring Schmargendorf is Sonja Frühsammer’s eponymous Michelin-starred restaurant, which specializes in elegant dishes showcasing high-quality produce. Wiener Conditorei Caffeehaus am Hagenplatz is a favorite neighborhood destination for Viennese pastry and coffee.